Abbeville, Edgefield, Greenwood & Ninety Six – plus an Upstate bonus: Spartanburg

This time of year makes me think of South Carolina’s Upstate mountains, slower days, and softer moments. Naturally, I’m also wondering when those green leaves will start fading to yellow and drifting to the ground. A few days ago, the beach morning’s 58° air had just the tiniest hint of fall, even though the next day the temperature climbed back up to 94°.

It wasn’t much of a change, but it was enough to make me long for fall. I know it is still summer, both by the calendar and the thermometer, but it is time to begin planning an Upstate road trip. Peak foliage is expected in mid-to-late October and will continue into early November.

Join me and discover historic B&Bs, local wines, and an iconic battleground as we travel from Spartanburg down through Abbeville, South Carolina.

Where and What is the South Carolina Upstate

Historically, the state was divided into the Lowcountry and the Upcountry, and separated by the Midlands. The modern term is the Upstate. You can call it either, but the key point is that it includes 10 northwestern counties along the Blue Ridge foothills, including Spartanburg, Greenwood, and Abbeville.

The Upstate counties and towns are easy day trips from several Southern towns. It’s under two hours from Columbia, South Carolina, even closer to Charlotte, North Carolina, and about three hours from Atlanta, Georgia. Make the drive: you’ll be glad you did.

Things to Do in the South Carolina Upstate

First, get outdoors. Seriously. South Carolina borders the ocean on one side, but rivers roll down the mountains and foothills before reaching the Atlantic. Woodlands and forests cover 68% of the land, plus historic battlefields and gardens like Hatcher Garden and Woodland Preserve in Spartanburg. Forty-seven state parks cover 90,000 acres, plus Congaree National Park and seven other National Park Service units.

People often think of other states when they hear “Revolutionary War,” but South Carolina saw over 200 battles and skirmishes—more than any other of the 13 states. Six of those were major battles, and of the battlefields preserved for visitors, four are in the Upstate. Your only decision is where to start your tour: Lowcountry, Midlands, or Upstate.

Where to Go in the South Carolina Upstate

Like my favorite line from Dr. Seuss’ Oh, the Places You’ll Go, “You’re on your own. And you know what you know. And YOU are the one who’ll decide where to go.” Read on to learn about the Upstate, and your head will be filled with so many choices it might explode.

The path that makes the most sense for this road trip, and saves time and gas, begins in Spartanburg, then travels through the Old 96 District, winding up in Abbeville. So, top off the gas tank and let’s hit the road.

Road Trip to Spartanburg

City Scape — an Upstate Winery in Pelzer

First stop—you saw this coming, right? Even before you reach Spartanburg (if you are driving from Columbia) and less than an hour from Abbeville, Ninety Six, or Greenwood, City Scape Winery in Pelzer is a perfect lunch or dinner stop. As they say at City Scape, “come for the wine, stay for the snacks.” And I concur: the charcuterie board is filled with fresh sourdough bread, homemade pickles and spreads, and locally sourced meats and cheeses–and there is cheesecake with fruit. Plus award-winning wines: be still my heart.

The vineyard and winery have always been family-owned, just not by the same family. City Scape has been producing wine since 2007. Josh and Debra Jones were raised in the Finger Lakes wine country of New York, and were living in Greenville when boredom reared its ugly head in 2009. Wine was a natural venture for the pair.

While searching for winemaking supplies, the couple discovered City Scape Winery. By 2015, they purchased the winery they had come to know, and ten years later, they still create new wines. Every wine City Scape bottles comes from grapes grown in South Carolina.

Explore Downtown Spartanburg

Spartanburg gives “one-stop shopping” new meaning when you arrive on West Main Street. In one block, you can browse the shelves and choose a book, start chapter one with coffee and an Oreo scone, and end up at a wine tasting—all without moving your car from its free on-street spot.

Hub City Bookshop

Hub City Bookshop was founded in 1995 by three local writers. Their mission? Make Spartanburg a center for the literary arts. The group has published books with special emphasis on South Carolina, debut, and Southern writers. Search the shelves for an author who calls to you. Have you always planned to write a book? The shop has a writer’s workshop and a writer’s club, so this may be just the push you need.

Little River Coffee Bar

Little River Coffee Bar opens early for a quick cuppa before locals head off to work. The coffee bar opened in 2010, and Cakehead Bakeshop opened next door. They laughingly called themselves the “trifecta” (books, coffee, and baked goods). Life was good—until 2019, when Cakehead decided to close. Little River Coffee Bar bought the equipment, got trained, and started baking—and from the taste of things, they’ve still got a trifecta happening.

Carriage House Wines

Carriage House Wines is a downtown wine shop with big-town wine selections. They carry affordable bottles in every varietal, including organic, and the wine bar also serves wine by the glass. (Sometimes a tasting just isn’t enough to decide.) The Carriage House also stocks spirits, making it a one-stop shop in a different way. Oh, and did I mention their curbside pickup service? *smile*

The Spice & Tea Exchange

The Spice & Tea Exchange lets shoppers inhale and sigh (at least, that’s what I did). The shop offers spices, salts, and seasonings that are hard to find in most grocery aisles. It also has loose-leaf teas and sugars to delight any tea aficionado. This is the perfect spot to collect items for a gift basket for that hard-to-shop-for foodie friend.

Bond Street Wines

Bond Street Wines has an impressive selection of international and domestic boutique wines. Jeff House has created a popular gathering spot and watering hole for locals. One group holds a “board meeting” at the corner table on Sunday afternoon. It adjourns to an outdoor table for their weekly mahjong game. The wine shop frequently hosts events with international flair, like its French wine tasting to celebrate Bastille Day.

Hub City Farmers’ Market

Hub City Farmers’ Market (also called Sundays on Morgan Square) is a great way to spend a Sunday in Spartanburg. The market is held on the second Sunday of each month from May through October. You can browse fresh local produce and meats, baked goods, and handmade arts and crafts while listening to live music. A weekly farmer’s market also runs on Saturdays from April through November at Northside Harvest Park. Vendors are mostly local farmers and creators, but Asheville-based French Broad Pastry makes occasional appearances—including the day I was there, when they served authentic French bakery treats.

The sponsoring agency is PAL (Play, Advocate, Live Well), and information about markets and other activities in Spartanburg is on their website.

Hatcher Garden and Woodland Preserve

A self-guided tour of Hatcher Garden’s 13-acre public gardens and wooded trails is a wonderful escape from the bustling Upstate city streets.

Open daily from dawn until dusk, Hatcher Garden is free for all to enjoy. They host frequent special events, so check their website. For instance, in September they host Fall for Hatcher—A Tasting Trail. The special event ticket lets you stroll the gardens after hours, taste bite-size treats from area restaurants, and sip craft brews from local breweries.

Other special events include Tai Chi for Health, music in the park, and the Garden to Table series, which teaches participants to create indigo napkins during the three-hour workshop.

On Sidewalk Sundays, Hatcher Garden’s first Artist-in-Residence, Sandi Gerner, works in the garden near the waterfall, creating colorful chalk art and encouraging visitors to add their own artistic endeavors to the flagstone palette. Her talent and connection with nature and children are a joy to observe. Stop by and watch her work, even if you don’t plan to add your artistry to the Sunday Sidewalk Sketches.

Where to Eat & Drink in Spartanburg

Cribb’s Kitchen

Chef William Cribb created Cribb’s Kitchen. Opened in 2009, the eatery combines innovative cuisine with Southern hospitality to draw local diners. The menu features burgers, sandwiches, wraps, comfort food, classics, and salads. Menu items include globally inspired dishes that are locally sourced. You can order a cocktail like a Huckleberry Gin or beer on tap to wash it all down.

Jo Tip: The Burger with Bacon Jam and Brie is a bite of heaven.

The Kennedy

The Kennedy is a modern bistro serving New American and Southern-style lunch and dinner dishes in an Art Deco-inspired restaurant. I’ve learned it is another creation of Chef William Cribb. I’ll need a return visit—I missed the Fry Bread topped with Bluefin tuna and za’atar yogurt (I’ve loved fry bread since my first bite nearly 25 years ago.)

On this visit, I sat at the small cocktail bar overlooking the kitchen and totally indulged. Ordering appetizers and small plates lets you graze and occasionally share a few bites with neighbors who do the same—a win/win in my book every time.

My Chimichurri Beef Skewer was perfection on a plate, interspersed with balsamic tomatoes and marinated in lemon oil. The grilled Nosh Focaccia arrived with local tomatoes, pistou and whipped ricotta, showered with basil and drizzled with a sweet balsamic reduction. I have a new “theory of ducktivity”—all duck should be Shiny Duck. Kennedy’s duck confit glistens with plum hoisin and is served with kimchi fried rice topped with a sunny egg.

The Grilled Rainbow Carrots cooked in brown butter and thyme were soft, sweet, and just a bit herby. Served on a mound of whipped ricotta and sprinkled with herbed bread crumbs, they were finished off with drips of honey. Side dish? I think not. Maybe dessert.

A Montebuena Tempranillo was a delightful accompaniment to my meal.

I topped it all off with Kennedy’s Sticky Toffee Pudding, which is topped with housemade ice cream and warmed bourbon caramel sauce. I was also rewarded for sharing with a taste of my neighbor’s “Burnt” Chocolate Spoon Bread, a cookie-butter mousse also covered in that luscious bourbon caramel sauce.

Wade’s Restaurant

Wade’s Restaurant has delighted locals with its Southern cooking since 1947. Wade and Betty Lindsey founded the restaurant when the young couple bought a tiny grocery store, and, at the request of workers from Draper Corporation and Duke Power, Mrs. Betty started cooking family dishes for the lunch crowd. Perfectly seasoned, top-quality meats and vegetables (for the uninitiated, that’s a meat-and-three plate), plus scratch-made bread kept people coming back, and eight decades later, they still do. As good as the food is, the rolls may be the star of the plate. The kitchen turns out 3,500 of their famous melt-in-your-mouth yeast rolls every day.

Wade’s believes in continuing to do what it does right: the same ingredients, recipes, and service—and it’s still on the same street; they just moved three miles, from the south to the north end of Pine Street. Arrive on Sunday after church, when the line wraps around the building, and you’ll understand exactly what I mean.

Wade’s has a list of accomplishments and awards as long as your arm, as we say in the South. But two of the most impressive are the Southern Living Best Family Restaurant award and the 2024 James Beard America’s Classics Award/Southeast Region. The Beard award honors locally owned restaurants beloved for quality food. Only six US restaurants receive this award each year. Wade’s is the first Upstate winner and only the third recipient in the category in South Carolina.

My choice for a classic Wade’s meal? A meat I love but rarely cook for just myself: turkey and dressing, with cranberry sauce, of course! My “three” consisted of sweet potato casserole (and you know it was topped with toasted marshmallows), summer squash, and speckled butter beans. The service was fast—so fast that after I ordered, I slipped off to the ladies’ room to wash up, and my plate beat me to the table. I returned to find a placard on my table: “Be right back.” They kept it warm for me. A large slice of lemon pie finished off my meal and my only remaining corner of space.

Where to Stay in Spartanburg

Clevedale Historic Inn & Gardens

In Spartanburg, the Clevedale Historic Inn & Gardens is a welcoming place to rest each night. If you play your cards right, you can stay in the unique 1947 MackRail Cabin Car (a Southern Railway Caboose). Each morning, you will dine on Pontheolla Mack Abernathy’s Southern breakfast dishes that will linger on your tongue and in your mind, drawing you back again and again. (I’m talking about you, Shrimp and Grits.)

This spectacular place almost belongs in the “gardens to visit” section. While a guest at the Inn, enjoy wandering the four acres of gardens that were once part of a 440-acre 1798 plantation. Built in 1913 and named for the Cleveland family, the last family member to live at Clevedale was banker Conrad Cleveland, Jr., whose love for horticulture and English gardens is still apparent. As inn owners and hosts, Pontheolla & Paul Abernathy say, “Clevedale is where history meets hospitality.”

For those with college-age youngsters, or returning alums, remember Spartanburg is home to more than five four-year colleges, and is only an hour and a half from Clemson. Just something to keep in mind if you need an excuse to plan a trip.

Explore Greenwood

Yes, you guessed it, this is another “Greene” town, named for General Nathanael Greene. Not far away is Greenville (originally chartered as Greeneville). General Greene carved quite a path in his first 38 years of life.

Uptown Greenwood is a walkable historic town, filled with topiaries, an art district, and several major annual festivals. Each June, the South Carolina Festival of Flowers fills the town with massive topiaries and live music, while garden tours are offered in the surrounding county. Enjoy walking around uptown Greenwood and admiring the “green-ery”—57 live, one-of-a-kind topiaries lined up along Main Street. Each floral sculpture is a living work of art, from a pig (appropriately hanging around the area where a BBQ competition is held) to a mermaid, a trumpeting elephant, and a Safari Jeep. Don’t miss posing in the photo frame for the perfect “selfie” to remember Greenwood.

On the weekend after the Fourth of July, you can experience The BBQ & Blues Festival of Discovery in Uptown Greenwood, with 2026 marking the Festival’s 25^th year. This annual, award-winning festival draws thousands of visitors. They come to celebrate the rich taste of blues and barbecue, along with free live music, the Kansas City Barbeque Society’s barbecue championship competition, and the BBQ hash cook-off.

When I arrived, the BBQ and Hash Cook-Off was in full swing, in spite of a cloudburst. After much tasting and voting, Cocamoke Smoke BBQ from Pensacola, Florida, took home the grand champion title—see Kansas City? The South knows BBQ too! And if you haven’t tried BBQ Hash, well, I’ll just say you need to be in Greenwood next July. *yum*

Jo Tip: If you decide to attend, book a room early—those thousands who attend quickly fill up this small town.

Off the Bone BBQ traveled from Mobile, Alabama, to Greenwood to vie for the grand champion title. The company’s owner and chief cook, Petey Marshall, says, “You don’t need teeth to eat our meat!” Petey has prepared the family’s BBQ since he was nine and claims BBQ is in his DNA. Now 26, the Mobile native has won BBQ contests nationwide since he was 19. He has become quite the BBQ Entrepreneur, with his own line of rubs and sauces (available online) and a smile you can spot for blocks! His ribs were falling-off-the-bone delicious, but the championship title wasn’t in the cards for Petey—this year.

Check into the local theater schedule—musicals and theatrical performances are the norm for weekend entertainment. If there isn’t a show, you can find live music at many local restaurants.

The town also has a train museum—The Railroad Historical Center—which is calling me back, since I couldn’t fit it into this trip. Plus, there’s that flower festival, so I call dibs on a redo!

Where to Eat in Greenwood

Break on the Lake

Break on the Lake appears before you get into town. Plan lunch here and enjoy the views of Lake Greenwood as it laps calmly against the shore. Seafood and steak are among the most requested offerings, and the colorful cocktails are tasty, served with or without alcohol.

Soft-shell shrimp tacos, topped with wasabi aioli, cheddar jack cheese, and slaw, hit the spot for my dining companion. My mahi-mahi fillet with chimichurri and remoulade came with a bowl of steamed vegetables. It was the perfect choice to keep me going all afternoon.

Smokin’ the City

Unless you plan your road trip for mid-July, you may miss your chance to eat from one (or more) of the 100 competitors at Greenwood’s Annual BBQ & Blues Festival. But luck is on your side. One of my favorite competitors, Smokin’ the City, is based in Greenwood.

Pitmaster Jamie Workman’s slow-cooked barbecue comes from his popular food truck, which often parks at Workman’s Soul & Que or the Maxway Parking Lot. He cooks over hickory, pecan, and oak wood fires. He is known for his brisket, ribs, pulled pork or chicken, hash, fried ribs, fried fish, and turkey legs. For sides, you can choose from smoked macaroni & cheese, slaw, potato salad, baked beans, rice, fries, and fried okra.

Learning About Ninety Six

How did a South Carolina town get the unusual name Ninety Six? Charleston traders traveling from the port city to the Cherokee village of Keowee believed they had about 96 miles left after covering nearly 200 miles. Their estimate gave the settlement its name. They were pretty accurate for the early 1700s.

By the 1770s, Ninety Six had grown into an important backcountry crossroads, with 12 roads and paths meeting near the village. That strategic location made it a hotspot during the American Revolution. The Battle of Ninety Six played two important roles in American independence. It was the site of the first southern land battle in 1775, and, in 1781, it was the location of the Revolutionary War’s longest field siege.

During Major General Nathanael Greene’s Southern Campaign, Patriot forces laid siege to the fortified Loyalist stronghold from May 22 to June 18, 1781. Although the Patriots withdrew without capturing the fort, the original earthen Star Fort remains one of the site’s most distinctive features.

For more on the battles and the people who shaped this chapter of South Carolina history, listen to the Jo Goes Everywhere! podcast and read a feature article on Big Blend Media’s Parks Magazine: Ninety Six National Historic Site.

Ninety Six National Historic Site

The visitor center’s museum introduces the settlement and its Revolutionary War history. It offers tips for a self-guided tour of the Ninety Six National Historic Site. It also has information on upcoming events and reenactments.

The paved round-trip Walking Tour takes visitors past the original Star Fort and other remnants of the siege. From the center, you can walk the one-mile paved loop trail, read interpretive signs that bring the battlefield to life, climb a watchtower, and examine the original Revolutionary War Star Fort.

Lt. Henry Haldane designed the earthen-wall fort, and Loyalist soldiers built it in 1781. The 14-foot-tall design was unpopular because it was difficult to construct the walls of dirt, but the eight-point star shape allowed for firing in all directions.

Near the trail’s end is a marker honoring Long Cane Militia member James Birmingham, the man considered the first (and only) American Revolution Patriot killed in the 1775 Battle of Ninety Six at Williamson’s Fort.

Another interesting local historic site is the childhood home of a Civil Rights Movement leader, Dr. Benjamin E. Mays, a mentor to Martin Luther King, Jr. The home is open daily, but on Saturday and Sunday, you must make an appointment. Tours are offered, but only by prearranged appointment.

96 Pecan Company in the South Carolina Upstate

My thoughts still linger on those fresh South Carolina pecans and the factory in Ninety Six, the 96 Pecan Company. Oh, the temptations they put in front of you. You can try to resist, and if you succeed, well, you’re stronger than I am. The selections were all delicious, but the Lemon Crunch was, well, addictive. It is a good thing they ship. The shop is filled with other temptations too, like old-fashioned candy selections, flavored soda pop, and antiques. Pecans are an important part of the region’s heritage, and the 96 Pecan Company gives visitors a behind-the-scenes look at pecan harvesting, sorting, and marketing.

Visit Abbeville

Abbeville is home to sites like Trinity Episcopal Church, a 125-foot tall Gothic Revival marvel built in 1860, and a walk down the brick-paved streets will take you past the Abbeville Opera House, South Carolina’s official state theatre, which has hosted live performances since 1908. While you are downtown, a plethora of cute shops will draw you in. Don’t fight it—go in and browse. You will find items to bring home (or eat while you walk), and maybe a recipe or three from The Black Apron.

The history-filled Belmont Inn (built in 1903 as the Eureka Hotel) is across the side street from the Opera House. An original mounting block stands next to a statue of a steed who looks ready to carry you off on an adventure. A darling little girl was there to pet him before her grandmother hurried her off to breakfast. The hotel was built to host railroad guests, particularly Vaudeville stars traveling between New York and Miami. Notable guests include stars Fanny Brice, Jimmy Durante, and Ricky Nelson. Another passed through town with a secret service entourage: President Jimmy Carter.

The Abbeville County Historical Society has a 60-stop walking tour, which I learned about when I stopped at the Rough House for a hot dog. I discovered they were Stop #4. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a brochure about the tour; however, the signs had QR codes to access a digital history of each spot. Now I’ve learned the inside scoop.

The Abbeville Historic Walking Tour features historic buildings and churches, plus homes, parks, and monuments. Stop #1 is the Abbeville Opera House. You can find maps at the town’s Welcome Center on the square, City Hall, or the Chamber of Commerce. If, like me, you arrive on a weekend (when those offices are closed), you can download the app from Google Play or the App Store.

The town is known as both the beginning and end of the Confederate government. A month before South Carolina’s secession convention in Charleston, a meeting was held in Abbeville on “Secession Hill.” According to local accounts, as the bitter war wound down, Confederate President Jefferson Davis and his Council of War of cabinet members of the Confederate government.met on May 2, 1865, at the local home of Major Armistead Burt, and agreed that further fighting was futile. Three days later, in Washington, Georgia, the Confederate government was officially dissolved.

Titan Farms

Although it’s not in Abbeville (and technically not in the Upstate), Titan Farms isn’t located in any other town I visited either. Still, it is part of the Old 96 District. I made the hour-long drive to visit Titan Farms while staying in Abbeville. My tour of the facility was nothing short of amazing, and I can’t wait to share that story with you.

Titan is a working farm in Ridge Spring, Saluda County (population: under 600). The 6,000-acre farm sits in the historic farming area called “The Ridge,” between Columbia, Augusta, and Aiken. The area is best known for producing peaches, pecans, and asparagus.

Family-owned and operated Titan Farms is the East Coast’s largest peach grower and also produces bell pepper, broccoli, and eggplant. Chalmers R. Carr III and Lori Anne Carr bought the orchard in 1999 and began producing peaches. The farm produces millions of pounds of peaches annually. Visitors can take home flavors of South Carolina by buying seasonal fresh produce at the farm stand or choosing from specialty peach products. If the farm is too far to visit, you can still enjoy a Titan peach. You can find Titan peaches at many grocery stores throughout the country, and you can order gift boxes on their website.

Where to Eat & Drink in Abbeville

Copper Frog Homestead

Walking through downtown Abbeville, the aroma from Copper Frog will draw you in. Really—who can resist Sourdough bread baking? They make fresh sandwiches on that amazing bread. Loaves are ready to buy and take home, and other sourdough varieties include 3 Cheese and Garlic, Blueberry Sourdough, and Candied Jalapeño and Cheddar. Either of those would be drool-worthy toasted and buttered or dipped in soup this winter.

Indigenous Underground

A labor of love, former teacher Chef Erica “Trudy” McCier began infusing her special flavors into beloved Southern dishes in 2021, and she hasn’t slowed down since. Her Shrimp and Grits may taste a bit different to diners—but that’s because goat cheese gives them a little extra kick. Buttermilk Fried Chicken comes with creamed collard greens. Collards are also a surprise ingredient in the Soul Rolls (trust me—dip those in the housemade chili sauce.)

A friend makes the desserts and brings them in daily. Chef Erica says that she “knows my strengths—and baking isn’t one of them.” I don’t know about that; she makes the brownies, and I can tell you, they were pretty Heavenly.

Indigenous Underground is one of fewer than 300 South Carolina Fresh on the Menu certified restaurants. Restaurants must source at least 25% of all ingredients from South Carolina when products are in season locally. Chef Erica takes pride in sourcing 80% from South Carolina-certified farms. In 2023, Governor McMaster named Chef Erica one of three South Carolina Chef Ambassadors.

Chef Erica warns that Indigenous Underground doesn’t serve fast food. So settle in and enjoy the experience. Read more about Indigenous Underground in Jo’s FWT magazine article.

Main Street Coffee Co.

For mornings that call for a hearty meal, Main Street Coffee Co. is right on the square. They serve everything from lattes and smoothies to full breakfast, brunch, or lunch. The shop has brisk early-morning business, but ample seating lets you linger or check a few emails. So go ahead and enjoy another cup of coffee.

Where to Stay in Abbeville

The Veranda on Main

Abbeville is home to the lovely bed-and-breakfast inn, The Veranda on Main. Designed in Southern Greek Revival style, the house is within walking distance of historic downtown. Opened in 2008 and now owned and operated by Darris and Karla Stoll, Veranda on Main is a thoughtfully appointed home, with comfortable spaces and beautifully decorated rooms. Late afternoon calls for a glass of wine and sitting on one of the wide porches. An early breakfast on the porch is a good idea, too.

Continental breakfasts are included, and all rooms have access to a central kitchenette. On hand there is a vast array of baked goods, cereals, granola, homemade yogurt, and milk from local cows.

Tour Edgefield

Referred to as the “Home of Ten Governors” and the “Gateway to Southern History,” Edgefield, South Carolina, offers rich history, plenty of shopping, and delicious food. Trenton and Johnston are just minutes away, with roadside stands for fresh produce and ice cream, plus a winery.

What to See in Edgefield

Walking around downtown Edgefield’s square will take you past a genealogy center, a local museum, and shops like TLC Confections, August House, and Magnolia Antiques and More. It is the perfect place to close out the road trip with pottery, wine, great food, and more history.

Cooks Roadside Market

Cooks Roadside Market carries fresh produce of every description, locally sourced meats, and locally made jams, jellies, and pickles.

D.A. Tompkins Memorial Library and Welcome Center

The D.A. Tompkins Memorial Library and Welcome Center is a perfect first stop in Edgefield. It has friendly folks who can tell you a few local yarns, and give you directions for a few not-to-miss spots, and it doubles as a museum. The pottery display is eye-catching, and the turkey calls—and the story behind them—are quite interesting and intricately made.

Old Edgefield Pottery

Old Edgefield Pottery’s workshop and store were in downtown Edgefield, but are moving to nearby Johnston. Dr. Abner Landrum established Edgefield Pottery during the early 1800s. He found that the clay in this rural area was perfect for creating food-safe stoneware. Two and a quarter centuries later, Edgefield local Justin Guy, Master Potter in residence, still creates pottery in the same fashion, running the Old Edgefield studio and teaching pottery at USC Aiken.

TLC Confections

Walking around Courthouse Square in Edgefield, you work up an appetite—no matter how much you devoured at lunch. Stop in at TLC Confections for a pick-me-up of made-from-scratch cookies or cakes. Not to mention their craft cocktail menu that includes a Reeses Chocolate Peanut Butter Martini. *yum*

Where to Eat & Drink in Edgefield

You might ask: in a town of barely 4,000 residents, how many places can there be? The answer is: a lot. And they’re all serving unique, delicious dishes. What I cannot tell you is how they got so lucky.

Christine’s Farm to Fork

Christine’s Farm to Fork has received a coveted 2026 Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator. After eating there, it is clear what led to that designation.

Christine and Jake Smith are locals, and they, along with sons Jacob and Jared, operate the restaurant and the family farm in Johnston. They are proud to partner with local farmers and vendors to create the freshest possible seasonal menu to delight diners.

My server, Katlyn, shared some words of wisdom. After ordering the Bacon-Wrapped Grilled Shrimp, served with Cranberry, Pineapple, and Ginger Chutney and Herb Cream Cheese, I was undecided about the entrée. Katlyn said, “Get the Ground Bison Bolognese—it’s my favorite.” She was right. They served it over Pappardelle Noodles, and it was divine. Peach cobbler made the short list for dessert. I was in peach country, after all.

As for wine, you’ll likely find something you like on the six-page wine list. Saad Hafez, acting as general manager and sommelier the night I visited, did not lead me astray. The Seeker Sauvignon Blanc and Roco Gravel Pinot Noir were excellent recommendations and paired perfectly with my dishes.

Christine’s has live music outdoors every Saturday night (except the extremely hot summer weeks, until the weather turns at the end of October), with a patio menu and beer on ice.

Old Edgefield Grille

A meal at The Old Edgefield Grille is a party in your mouth. This Victorian home, built in 1906, has been a restaurant since 1991, when they turned the first-floor rooms into dining rooms and one into a full bar. They’ve won awards for the best burgers and having the best service.

When the locally owned Old Edgefield Grille opened in 1999, Chef Sean Wight built a Southern menu that featured his famous Shrimp and Grits and Southern hospitality. Since 2015, Stan Newsome and his wife, co-owner and head chef Lisha Zhangan, have put their stamp on recipes, like the Pork Dumplings and several other Asian-influenced dishes on the lunch menu. Executive Chef Frank Williams brings his blend of soul-flavored foods and techniques, including his signature dish, Seafood Étouffée.

My lunch companion ordered Almond Chicken, an Asian-style fried chicken covered in house-made almond gravy and sprinkled with green onions and sliced almonds. It was served over jasmine rice. The grilled asparagus side was too tempting for either of us to resist. I ordered the Asian BBQ Pork Skewers and was completely satisfied. The pork was marinated in ginger, garlic, chili peppers, green onions, and cumin before grilling. They glazed it in house-made Asian BBQ sauce and served it beside jasmine rice.

We divided a large portion of dessert, a “death-by-chocolate” concoction that was surrounded by vanilla ice cream. Stan assured us it was enough to share, and we assured him we were only two, not a party of four.

Sara’s Fresh Market

Sara’s Fresh Market was calling me, and even a downpour couldn’t keep me from their homemade peach soft serve ice cream. I’ve been a fan of soft serve since the Mr. Softee truck visited my neighborhood and, with six-year-old wisdom, I won the safety slogan contest and a purple bike (“Look where you’re going and not where you’ve been.”) I pulled in to a packed parking lot, so clearly the secret about Sara’s peach soft serve is out.

Three Star Vineyard and Orchard

Johnston’s Three Star Vineyard and Orchard is a family-owned 100-acre vineyard and orchard that grows and hand-harvests muscadine and scuppernong grapes, ferments them locally, and bottles them into wine. In business for nearly 35 years, Three Star is South Carolina’s largest grower and shipper of those grapes, with East Coast retailers selling them from New York to Florida.

The gift shop and tasting room is large and comfortable. They pour a variety of sweet and dry wines by the glass and by the flight, offer wine slushies for tastings, and also have a selection of food items. The house slushies are the most popular and always available, plus additional flavors that rotate in and out seasonally. The tasting room shared their secret tip: when summer flavors are on the board, ask for a combination of your two favorites. (I love a good secret—don’t you?)

They also make non-alcoholic slushies for kids and the designated driver. The gift shop also sells jams, jellies, and salsas, along with jewelry and unique gifts.

From March through October, the venue has live entertainment on Saturdays from 1-3 p.m. The venue is available for rent for private parties.

Go ahead and circle May 15, 2027 on your calendar. It is the scheduled date for the first annual music festival at Three Star. The festival will feature multiple stages with continuous music from 10 a.m. until midnight. Food trucks and other vendors are welcome, and refreshing drinks will be available.

Synchronize your watches for a Spring road trip: see you in Johnston, South Carolina, at 10 a.m. on May 15!

Plan a Road Trip Around History

For more exciting trips, take a drive along the South Carolina coast and breathe in the Lowcountry’s Gullah History, point that car toward Greensboro, North Carolina, or head to Gettysburg and ride in the hoofprints of history.

Writer: Jo Clark

Jo loves to find ‘off the beaten path’ places, quietly observing the area and animals, taking photographs, and enjoying the scenery. Jo is an award-winning photographer and loves learning about a place’s history, food, and wine! She often says, “I love food, and I’ll eat anything that doesn’t eat me!” Follow more of her adventures on Instagram-you’ll find her @JoGoesEverywhere.