Let me tell you how to have the most exciting time in Sonoma: go zipping through the vineyards in a motorcycle sidecar! I spent ten days in Sonoma County and the most fun I had (see that huge smile) was riding beside Jérôme.
Jérôme Ribeiro is a relocated Frenchman, chef, tour guide, and gentleman. He is also hilarious. His humor will keep you laughing all day. Visit his Rides by Me website, and you’ll see him encouraging you to “Take a ride on the wild side(car)!”
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Exciting Time in Sonoma – on the Wild Side(car)!
The sidecar tour started at the El Pueblo Inn in downtown Sonoma. Jérôme picked up my travel buddy, Audrey, and me to whisk us off for a fun-filled day of wind, wine, and wonder. Even an early morning sprinkle on the way to the first stop couldn’t dampen our spirits. Midway through the day, we stopped for a delightful picnic.
As Jérôme says, he loves the motorcycle and sidecar setup because they connect people with the vineyards and beauty around them. And he confides, “It’s nearly impossible to be on your phone while you’re on a motorcycle.” For pairs, like my travel buddy and me, you split your time in the sidecar while the other person rides behind the driver. On cool mornings, you’ll have a lap blanket tucked around you.
Exciting Time in Sonoma at Landmark Winery
When you travel with Jérôme, you travel with the best. He knows everyone. Even though Landmark Winery was closed on the day we toured, somehow, he managed to get us invited in for a tasting.
Landmark’s Director of Hospitality, John Mangano, welcomed us at the door, guided us through the tastings, and provided a lovely charcuterie board. He filled in the story of the winery between pours. We especially enjoyed Beehive Cheese Company’s Bearly Buzzed, a rich, buttery cheddar cheese with a black rind of espresso and lavender. The caramel and butterscotch enhanced the chardonnays we tasted. It is now a permanent item on my grocery list.
Landmark Winery is celebrating 50 years of winemaking this year. Damaris Deere Ford, great-great-granddaughter of Steel plow inventor John Deere, named Landmark for the Deere family’s Bermuda home. The house was situated so that 18th-century sailors often saw this view when coming across the Atlantic from Europe.
In 1993, Ford hired renowned enologist Helen Turley to take the winery’s chardonnay to a new level. Her winemaking methods were labor- and time-intensive and still in use. The winemaker uses whole-cluster-pressing and adds native yeast for fermenting before aging the wine in imported French oak barrels.
Today’s award-winning wines are the handiwork of winemaker Greg Stach, who believes you must grow great grapes to make great wine. He closely monitors the vineyards, accompanied by “Tag,” his large white best friend. Greg and Tag stopped in the tasting room for a quick visit with us, and he shared some of his favorite wines and a few secrets. The winery has vineyards in grape-growing regions from Santa Barbara to Sonoma. He relies on the grape’s flavor and the characteristics of individual vineyards to tell him when to turn them into wine. As he says, “Consistency is the real secret.”
Landmark Wines
Landmark sticks to what it does best, making outstanding Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. The difference in wines is that the grapes are grown in different vineyards. There is also an estate-grown Pinot Gris that was delicious.
One of my favorites of the day was the 2017 Hop Kiln Estate Pinot Noir. It was an ahhhh! moment for me. That Pinot is one of those wines that puts a smile on your face with the first smell and keeps it there through the last sip. We tasted a 2021 Rayhill Pinot Noir that was rich and had a perfect juiciness.
We also tried a delightful 2022 Russian River Chardonnay from their Star Ridge vineyard. It was aged in new and used French oak and stainless steel. Then there was the 2018 Hilliard Bruce Chardonnay, made from grapes grown in the Santa Rita Hills and aged in French oak and stainless steel. Many Chardonnays tasted on our visit had lighter oak layers, creating airy wines that still had richness in the underlying layers, making ideal wines (for me.) Enjoy Landmark wines at the winery; they aren’t available in retail locations but ship to all 50 states.
Sonoma’s Gundlach Bundschu Winery
We continued our exciting time in Sonoma at Gundlach Bundschu Winery and its aging caves. No place in Sonoma has been making wine longer than Rhinefarm Estate’s Gundlach Bundschu Winery. I know that’s a mouthful. That’s probably why they call it GB. The family has owned and operated this land since 1858. Travel + Leisure named GB as one of the best wineries in Sonoma.
The estate is beautiful, with rock buildings and rolling hills covered in organic vineyards. There is also the underground world of GB, so don’t miss touring the wine cave. You will be guided back in time as you listen to legends and stories of the Bundschu family’s history in California winemaking. As you walk, you will taste wines and learn about the old vines, sheep, and sustainability practices used on the farm.
We spent time with Jamie as he poured and described the wines. I know it sounds like a lot of tastes, but Audrey and I split our tastings. One of us gets what the other doesn’t; then we share…doubling our fun! Our first taste of GB wine was a mouth-watering Sonoma Valley Dry Gewurztraminer. Let me tell you about it.
GB Wines
The Dry Gewurztraminer had a hint of grapefruit, lychee, and papaya. We moved right on to the Sonoma Coast Rhinefarm Rosé, whose strawberry and hint of watermelon put a tingle on my tongue. The Heritage Chardonnay carried a lingering quality of creamy butter and orange, much like a blood orange crème brûlée (what a pairing that would be.)
Moving on, we tried the 2021 La Cuadrilla, a wine with hints of plum and violet. Many years ago, I made violet jelly and wine, so this was like coming home. And, of course, we tried GB’s Rancho Agua Caliente Zinfandel, which was a touch spicy and flowery and had a well-balanced flavor.
Then we got serious and tasted the Pinot Noir, also grown in a vineyard along the Sonoma coast. The hint of truffle mushroom was a surprise. Jamie was quick to claim ownership of this because he is “a fun guy.” *giggle* Pinot is always a favorite of mine because it pairs with various foods, from brie to duck to salmon.
The winemaker enhanced the Cabernet Sauvignon by adding three percent Petit Verdot and one percent Merlot. As a lover of both, I believe their inclusion in this bottle could only mean one thing—nirvana. The wine was almost black and seemed laced with cocoa-wrapped blackberries. We also tried the Petit Verdot as a separate wine. We found the wine filled with luscious fruit and perfectly chocolaty.
The Merlot was rich and had an unbelievable depth to the wine. Made from grapes grown in nearby Sonoma Valley, the Merlot had a hint of spice that I could taste after being told it was Rosemary. The 2018 Heritage Merlot was more decadent and filled with dark berry aftertaste, and it was more “plumy,” if that is a word. In short, this was delicious and deserved to be sipped slowly beside a fire.
Vineyard Picnic
Rides by Me treated us to an exciting time in Sonoma by going al fresco. We enjoyed a delectable homemade French-style picnic in a vineyard with Chef Jérôme—when he removes his motorcycle helmet, the chef underneath shines through.
Lunch was fresh tabouli, savory sandwiches, and a salad with French wine. Dessert? My favorite, French Macarons—homemade, of course.
Exciting Time in Sonoma at Pomme Cider Shop & Taproom
After a day of wine drinking, a final stop at Pomme Cider Shop & Taproom to taste Rick’s selections brought a refreshing taste to the table. The cider shop is just off the historic Sonoma Plaza and is the town’s only cider tap room.
The shop is home to over 150 ciders from the West Coast and every corner of the globe. The shop also carries over 20 Pét-Nats, rosés, Champagnes, and orange wines for purchase by the bottle and one local wine on tap. And if you arrive hungry, local bites are also available. In addition, Rick changes his menu every two weeks, which certainly keeps people coming back to see what’s new.
We taste-tested Mackintosh from Haykin Family Cider in Colorado, Perry from Finn River, Oregon, and a bright Ginger Agave from the local Sincere Cider of Napa. Then we tried a cider with the cute name of Fancy Pants, a Blackberry and Ginger cider. Rick finally served us “dessert,” a Strawberry Cider made at the Santa Cruz Cider Company in nearby Watsonville.
Pomme has a happy hour on Fridays from 3-6 pm, and on the third Sunday of each month, they hold something called a “muffin lab.” I don’t know about you, but I’ll be all over that on my next visit.
Have an Exciting Time in Sonoma…err, I Mean, San Francisco!
If you are in San Francisco, spending a day with Rides by Me can mean moving along iconic winding streets. You’ll get an entirely new angle on San Francisco’s landmarks! Jérôme offers four different tours of the city by the Bay, one from 12 different hills and another of the area’s most iconic monuments. There is even a nighttime tour to enjoy.
Where to Eat in Sonoma
Your exciting time in Sonoma continues with a plethora of dining choices. Let me recommend our top spots.
The Girl and the Fig
A popular spot in Sonoma is The Girl and the Fig. It is so popular that you must make a reservation, even on a Wednesday night. After dining there, I know why! The food is unique and delicious! Our server extraordinaire, Dennis, took excellent care of us and offered perfect suggestions on dishes.
We started with a pre-dinner cocktail, the Fig Kiss. Then the feast began with a tomato & watermelon salad, Fig tartine, wild flounder meunière, duck confit, and a glass of Syrah. We ended the evening with a glass of Truchard Roussanne, a dry white wine whose unctuousness was perfect with the Fall Spice Crème Brûlée. Of course, we had to have one of their famous sea salt and chocolate chunk cookies on the side!
And, just announced by Yelp, The Girl and the Fig is one of three Sonoma County restaurants named among the Best Places To Eat in the Bay Area. Don’t miss this outstanding restaurant.
Los Molcajetes Bar and Grill
The Mexican restaurant, Los Molcajetes Bar and Grill, near our hotel, had great signs and an eye-catching building. It worked. We showed up for dinner. And it was deliciosa. The welcoming basket of tortilla chips came with salsa, guacamole, and a third bowl containing mole.
The shrimp and fish tacos were both grilled perfectly. We shared those and split a Chile Relleno with meat and melted cheese. Both plates had servings of a delicious mango salsa.
When a restaurant has two locations in Santa Rosa and one in Sonoma, they must be doing something right. (pssst… it’s the food!)
Where to Stay for an Exciting Time in Sonoma
We stayed at the El Pueblo Inn—I mean, if it’s good enough for Metalica…*smile* Yes, really, all kidding aside, when the band played a secret concert at Gundlach Bundschu Winery in August of 2020, they stayed at the El Pueblo Inn! The concert was filmed and shown later that month at the winery’s drive-in. How fun is that?
Hotel Manager Aranda Burtson runs a friendly hotel. The staff is welcoming and helpful, and guests can help themself to a bountiful early morning breakfast. The rooms have private porches that overlook a fountain and lush garden.
After an exciting time in Sonoma exploring, hiking, or wine tasting, visitors can wind down in the Inn’s hot tub under the palms. Located in a secluded corner near the pool, the tub is the ideal spot to end your day and have fun with (most of) your clothes off!
It is a great place to make new friends, too. Each morning at breakfast, we checked in with each other to find out what gems everyone visited the day before and what they had planned for the new day. It was exciting to check in and find out so many had taken my tips and suggestions to visit wineries, restaurants, and nearby parks.
Where to Go for an Exciting Time in Sonoma
There is more fun in Sonoma than visiting wineries. We just scratched the surface in ten days, but let me share some of our favorite places.
Hanson of Sonoma Distillery
At Hanson of Sonoma Distillery, you will have an exceptional vodka tasting. But this vodka is not made from potatoes, grain, or corn. Hanson Vodka begins life as a grape! The tour and history of the facilities were interesting and started at the bar with unique cocktails. The tour ended at the same bar, where we tasted white wine-based vodka paired with locally-made Kollar Chocolate Truffles, which was surprisingly delicious. After your tasting, you can relax in a garden overlooking a pond. You can arrange space in the back room for a large group.
Jack London State Historic Park
The Jack London State Historic Park on Sonoma Mountain is near Sonoma and honors American writer Jack London. We spent a day at the ranch home of London, a famed author, especially for his books about adventures and exotic travel, like Call of the Wild and White Fang. London wrote over 50 books (fiction and nonfiction), short stories, and articles between 1900 and 1916.
London and his wife Charmian purchased what he called Beauty Ranch in parts between 1905 and 1913. As he expanded the ranch, he added vineyards still owned by his descendants. You can take free docent-guided weekend tours or arrange private group tours.
Today, the park encompasses 1,570 acres. In 1959, 39 acres, including London’s gravesite, were donated to the State of California. Later, the state purchased additional acres, the cottage, and outbuildings, and eventually, the historic orchard was transferred to the park. In 1960, the property was declared a State Park and California Historical Landmark. Then it was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1962.
At the ranch, you can walk, ride your bike or horse (or sign up for a guided tour on horseback) along more than 29 miles of trails, many alongside vineyards. While there is no restaurant on the property, there are lovely picnic areas. I encourage you to stop as you come through Glen Ellen to purchase sandwiches and snacks to enjoy in the park. The park is enormous, and you can easily spend a day exploring interesting, historic spots at this landmark.
Historic Buildings
There are numerous buildings on the property, and you will want to visit these in particular:
The House of Happy Walls Museum was built after Jack London’s death and was Charmian’s home for many years. Today, the house is full of travel memorabilia and displays that tell Jack and Charmian London’s story.
The Londons’ Cottage is where the Londons lived and where each Jack and step-sister Eliza drew their last breath.
Wolf House Ruins is where the remains of Jack London’s dream home stand. The home was nearly complete when it burned, leaving only massive rock walls. And, just up the hill from Wolf House is the grave site on a knoll overlooking the Valley of the Moon, where Charmian buried Jack’s ashes. Almost forty years elapsed before Charmian’s ashes joined his.
Pig Palace, along with the winery, silos, and barns, stand as silent reminders of the life of this historic ranch. Each pig had individual housing and runs, earning it the name of Pig Palace.
Sonoma Botanical Garden
Another place you should visit is the Sonoma Botanical Garden. You’ll be disappointed if you are expecting acres and acres of bright, annual floral displays. But if you are ready for 67 acres of natural beauty filled with Asian and California native plants, winding paths, ponds, picnic spots, and hidden waterfalls, this is the place. The garden was dedicated to East Asia’s plant diversity when founded in 1987 by Jane Davenport Jansen, and exhibits highlighting California’s biodiversity have been added.
Epicurean Connection
You can have an exciting time in Sonoma with Epicurean Connection’s Cheese Class, learning to make Crème de Ricotta and butter. There may have been some wine sipping between steps *smile*.
Sheana Davis and Ben Sessions taught us how to create the perfect creamy ricotta, and then the real fun began. We learned how to add flavors to our ricotta to make deliciously flavored spreads. We divided our ricotta into containers and experimented with flavorings, from hot to sweet. My favorite? Bourbon Vanilla with Peach and Cherry. What is the best thing about learning how to make butter and cheese? Eating your classwork and taking home your leftovers to share.
Sonoma Plaza and Sonoma State Historic Park
Walking the streets of downtown Sonoma, you will see intriguing architecture. One of the most striking is the Spanish Mission, which is now a part of the Sonoma State Historic Park.
This park is unusual because it doesn’t exist within a single space. The historical sites that comprise the park are spread through five different locations near the Plaza and General Vallejo’s home, a mile west of town. We visited the Mission San Francisco Solano, the Sonoma Barracks, the Servants Quarters, and the General’s home.
Also, just outside town is Vallejo’s Petaluma Adobe Rancho, the largest adobe building in Northern California in the 1830s (the Mexican Period.) The headquarters is preserved and is a separate unit of the State Park.
You can visit all these locations with your paid entry to Sonoma State Historic Park. Your pass includes access to all locations, so allow time to enjoy your day. To learn more about the historic plaza, you can use this Sonoma Plaza Visitor’s Guide – it lists everything you might want to do.
Best Time to Visit Sonoma
The time to visit Sonoma for perfect weather is fall. September, October, and November offer warm days, cool nights, and cloudless blue skies–in short, perfection!
Plan Your Next Trip
For more exciting trips, try some of my favorite wine-filled locations. Plan a trip to Corning and the Finger Lakes to visit as many wineries for tastings as possible, or make a road trip from the Roanoke Valley of Virginia to North Carolina’s beautiful Yadkin Valley Wineries.
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